In keeping with
the old Donegal
Vindicator's
Christmas number
tradition,
the new Canadian
Vindicator offers
the following short
story in its December
2003 issue.
One
cold winter
Christmas is a time for
remembering, and it's
the sad family that
has no good memories
of times gone past.
This is the story of
one of those good memories.
There were worse winters
before, and worse winters
after, but the winter
of 1939 was the worst
until then in my young
lifetime. And it was
the best winter I ever
experienced.
You may have noticed
me ramble on about winter
in Canada where I now
live. In Ottawa, its
capital, we count ourselves
fortunate if winter
lasts just four months,
and by winter I mean
snowy ice-covered ground.
My first beard was grown
in Yukon during one
particularly cold January.
In the wetness of Seattle
I spent a lonesome Christmas
Day in a tavern not
far from the docks.
But my mind always returns
to that winter of 1939,
in the town of Ballyshannon,
in Donegal, the northernmost
county in Ireland.
The snow that fell that
year was the mother
of all snows. In a country
where snow in winter
was a rarity, that year
made up for all the
missed snowfalls of
pervious years.
True, the Annals mentioned
really bad winters,
longer lasting winters,
death-dealing winters,
taking life from humans,
wildlife and birds,
with no distinction
made between young and
old. That, of course,
was long ago.
The young Red Hugh O'Donnell
lost both big toes to
frostbite escaping from
his English jailers
in the depth of winter.
The long death march
from Kinsale back to
Tyrone and Tyrconnell
was also something that
happened long ago.
This, this was real.
This was seven weeks
of unremitting cold,
of frozen snow and icy
streets, that set old
folk to arguing about
when did they remember
anything like it.
Old folk are like that.
Depending on the season,
"It was always
colder when we were
young." "It
was always hotter when
we were young."
Now that I've joined
their ranks I know they
were right. That winter
in Ballyshannon was
colder than any young
people nowadays can
imagine.
In those days youngsters
wore short pants all
year round. And stockings,
not socks. The stockings
reached just below knee
high. In winter they
were woolly and warm,
usually hand knitted
by our mothers. But
they stopped at the
knee.
And in cold weather we
all had cold knees.
Girls suffered the same
fate. Coming indoors
all we wanted was to
warm our knees close
to the kitchen range
or sitting before a
fire in a grate.
We went out and came
in a lot.
Our hands were the worst.
Chilblains were exquisite
torture. In the damp
coldness of an ordinary
Irish winter we learned
to live with them. Somehow
gloves were not considered
essential. Anyway, you
couldn't make good snowballs
wearing gloves.
The contrast in coping
with winter in Canada
could not be greater.
Here no mother would
dream of allowing young
children to go out on
a snowy day without
snowsuit, mittens, gloves
and scarves, all topped
with hood or hat.
It wasn't that parents
in Ireland were less
caring. It was just
that snow came so infrequently,
and didn't last. There
was no snow culture,
nothing ingrained or
inbred that made coping
with snow a natural
process of living.
Elsewhere on this web
site will be found two
or three items recalling
winter snows and the
joy they brought to
young and old. Yes,
joy, for there was little
traffic to interfere
with sleigh rides down
Main Street, across
the fourteen arches
of the bridge spanning
the River Erne, and
ending in the Purt of
Ballyshannon.
This story is different,
up close and personal,
of that one snowy winter
and how it affected
publication of the family
weekly newspaper, The
Donegal Vindicator.
The machine room which
housed the Wharfedale
printing press, the
hand-fed platen, the
make-up stones, the
trays of type fonts,
the racks of poster
types, the chases, brass
rules, composing sticks,
coigns, keys, all the
"furniture"
required in make-up,
the iron cylinder cases
into which melted rubber
composition was poured
to set and cool, eventually
to become inking rollers
for flatbed or platen,
all the bits and pieces
that made up the stuff
of a printing works,
not forgetting the tins
of printers' ink with
their distinctive smell
--that machine room
with its corrugated
tin roof, planked sides,
and cobwebbed windows,
was a separate edifice
that could only be entered
from the outdoors.
In other words, to reach
it from the main structure,
one had to walk outside
and traverse a pathway
to the door of the machine
room.
The room was heated by
a potbellied stove,
fed with coal, turf,
or whatever other combustible
might be handy when
both were in short supply.
With its corrugated
tin roof and chinks
in its walls, it was
never a warm place at
the best of times, but
in the depths of winter
one learned to enter
and exit quickly to
a loud refrain: "Shut
the door!"
Somehow
this snapshot has survived
the vicissitudes of
time to show the icicle
clad exterior and snowdrift
walls. The stone building
at the rear was the
original printing works
which housed some twenty
compositors who "hand
set from case"
before machine setting
equipment replaced them.
The room in which the
Intertype was housed
was part of the main
building which housed
the paper's offices
and our living quarters
above.
Why there was no passage
between the Intertype
room and the machine
room was a mystery.
In the dim and distant
past there had been
a connecting link, closed
for some forgotten reason,
and never reopened.
Hence the necessity
to go out to go in when
passing between them.
This meant that galley
trays of type cast in
hot metal by the Intertype
had to be carried by
hand outdoors in all
weathers to the machine
room, there to be made
up in demy size page
lengths , interspersed
with strategically placed
advertisements, the
lot being locked in
steel frames called
chases, which in turn
were carried to the
Wharfedale and locked
in position on its flat
bed.
After printing, the lead
slugs were placed in
a pot on the hot pot
bellied stove which
returned them to a molten
state, which was cast
in ingots, carried back
to the Intertype room,
and began their cycle
once more into slugs
of hot metal type.
The hot bellied stove
was the only thing which
made the machine room
habitable in winter.
Correspondingly, when
used in summer to melt
the metal slugs, it
almost made the machine
room uninhabitable.
Now with the turn of
a switch in Canada I
can summon up heat in
cold winter and air
conditioning in hot
summer. But there still
comes the odd shout
, in both winter and
summer, "Shut the
door!"
There is just no pleasing
everybody.
To return to that memorable
winter of 1939, the
Vindicator machine
room was a veritable
hive of activity in
the pre-Christmas season,
and much of the to-ing
and fro-ing fell to
my father. He it was
who supervised the making
of illustrations to
go with the advertisements,
again a hot metal process,
one that required a
certain delicacy of
judgment in pouring
molten lead into small
iron frames which held
an impressed deep-relief
matrix. The end product,
if the temperature of
the molten metal was
right, and the matrix
wasn't burned, was a
metal plate with a picture
indented on it.
Only one of these could
be made at a time. Dad,
it seemed to me, was
continually interrupting
his work as editor and
one-man general factotum
to don overcoat and
gloves and plow his
way through snow, long
frozen, still falling,
to the machine room
to make a metal plate,
and back again to his
office, cold going and
cold returning.
As a youngster of twelve
it was an exciting time
for me, watching and
learning, seeing everything
done by hand in the
printing process of
the times.
At 7:30 each morning
"the metal was
switched on". What
this meant was that
the electric heating
for the Intertype pot
was begun, a process
that took an hour and
a half to turn the ingots
into molten form which
in turn became the slugs
of lead type keyboarded
by Frank Burke or Mick
Slevin, the Intertype
machine operators.
Eight columns a day was
the norm for an operator's
production of straight
text. Anything requiring
the switching of fonts
could cut into the normal
output.
My uncle, John McAdam,
was responsible for
the Wharfedale, keeping
it liberally supplied
with oil, casting the
inking rollers in the
carefully greased cylinders,
setting the blades on
the printing press ink
duct to ensure the proper
amount of ink reached
each individual page,
and feeding the paper
sheet by sheet with
each rotation of the
big roller that impressed
paper to type with just
the right pressure.
Do you know that you
can handle sheets of
white paper with hands
black with printer's
ink, without leaving
a mark on it? This was
something that always
puzzled me when I saw
my uncle working. The
secret was simple. He
slid his hands down
the outside of his trousers
or dungarees, and the
friction left his hands
and fingers glossy,
like modern-day teflon
coating, so that they
were incapable of transferring
any of their oily blackness
to paper.
That winter saw a return
to sleighing on the
Main Street, from just
above Reid & Sweeny's
, the solicitor's office,
all the way down to
the Market Yard, across
the fourteen arches
spanning the Erne, and
into the East Port.
The Erne at that time
was a wide river, not
the constricted tailrace
that flows through a
man-made narrow rock
cutting, a consequence
of the hydroelectric
dam erected where Cathleen's
Falls once were.
It ran behind the roofless
building shown in the
photograph above, cold,
dark, and deep. That
winter small fingers
of ice laced its sides
wherever it slowed and
backwater eddies formed.
The weather wasn't cold
enough to permit the
ice to grow longer,
but it was cold enough
to let the ice cover
Lough Bracken and several
other ponds and lakes
not far away, where
in colder, harsher winters
people had skated.
That winter was the first
of the Second World
War.
It was the first winter
I recall with the clarity
of a young boy's memory
undimmed by time. The
crunchy snow, the early
morning chill, the clearness
in the air, the cold
hands, the reddened
cheeks and numbed toes,
the walk to school,
Sweeny's Steps, the
sting of the wind on
top of The Rock, and
not a worry in the world,
all that day by day,
and the red hot stove
with its pot of melting
metal when school was
over, all those made
up the wonderland of
that winter of 1939.
I wish all readers of
this new cyberspace
Vindicator their
own happy memories of
the winter of 2003.
--30--
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