A pilgrimage for all
ages
From a distance there
is little to identify
it as anything but a
very small island in
the middle of a lake,
incongruously dotted
with buildings far out
of proportion to its
size.
If you are fortunate
you will first see it
in sunshine and think
"Oh, it can't be
all that severe. And
anyway it's only for
three days."
What you will experience
during those three days
is an individual matter.
Those three days may
change your life permanently,
or only for a short
time until the everyday
world catches up once
more and you go on as
you have always done.
But the memory of them
will last a lifetime.
The island is located
on Lough Derg, in Tirconaill,
that being an ancient
name of Donegal, the
northernmost county
in Ireland, and is home
to an annual pilgrimage
that has drawn people
to it for a thousand
years and more.
Once believed to be the
site of St. Patrick's
Purgatory, and containing
one of the few entrances
to Hell (there are others
famous in story and
legend in remote spots
throughout Europe),
that little island continues
to draw pilgrims from
all over the world.
Just last month a special
group went there, special
in that they were reliving
the experiences of ancestors
dating back to the Middle
Ages, and special in
themselves in that they
were in Ireland to participate
in the Special Olympics
for the handicapped.
They were members of
the Hungarian delegation,
and their boat trip
around the island was
an historic reminder
that, in the early Middle
Ages, Hungarian noblemen
made frequent pilgrimages
to the holy island in
the centre of the Lough.
Manus Brennan, spokesman
for the local Donegal
Olympic host committee,
was told of the unique
link by Gyula Sumeghy,
first secretary of the
Hungarian Embassy in
Dublin.
Said Mr. Brennan, "This
is history repeating
itself and it makes
it very appropriate
that this delegation
should have been sent
to Donegal town, so
close to Lough Derg."
What's it really like?
Those three days?
From a landing dock at
the loughside, pilgrims
are ferried to the island,
discard socks and shoes,
and spend the rest of
that first day in bare
feet making the devotional
rounds of various "beds",
reciting the Rosary,
meditating, and getting
over the shock that
everyone else, young,
old, men and women,
are doing the same thing.
This is all outdoors,
come rain come shine.
That night, still in
bare feet, devotions
are held at regular
intervals in the Church.
First-day arrivals do
not sleep. And the hardy
also continue making
the rounds of the "beds".
Well on into the second
day the strict observance
of spiritual exercises
continues, mainly outdoors.
There is one relaxation.
Whenever penitent pilgrims
wish to break their
fast they are free to
eat as much soup as
they wish. This gives
them the chance to reinvigorate
themselves.
Those who had been on
previous pilgrimages
chuckle when first-timers
find out that the soup
consists of boiled lake
water, slightly coloured
in its natural state
without straining, but
flavoured with salt
and pepper to suit each
individual's taste.
Further relief comes
when pilgrims are allowed
to sleep on the second
night, and what a wonderful
sleep it is, with a
purged conscience and
a soul at ease with
itself.
Surprisingly, despite
being drenched, possible
for two days in a row,
pilgrims have affirmed
time and time again
that none suffered any
ill consequences.
Brief morning devotions
on the third day are
followed by a ferry
ride once more across
the lough, and departure
homeward by bus or train.
There is one additional
observance to be followed.
Pilgrims may not eat
food until midnight
on that third day.
The effect can be temporary
or long lasting. That
is up to the individual.
But the memory of the
pilgrimage can never
be erased.
The good people of Donegal
town and environs did
their utmost to host
the young Hungarian
athletes during their
four-day stay. Coming
from a land-locked country,
many had never seen
the sea, any sea, and
arrangements were made
to bring them to the
seaside resort of Rossnowlagh
and for a boat outing
in Donegal Bay.
May their memories of
their experiences in
Donegal be lifelong
happy ones. And may
their descendants five
hundred years hence
return on their own
pilgrimages
--30--
More on Lough Derg and
St. Patrick's Purgatory
may be found on the
World Wide Web, in particular
by accessing the official
Lough
Derg site.
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